Grindelwald to Zermatt day 6 - Oberems to St Niklaus over the Augstbordpass

From the route's lowest point at Turtmann we journey to its highest at the Augstbordpass joining for a while the path of the Walker's Haute Route. Today is a journey through one of the most tranquil and unspoilt valleys in Switzerland and up to the edge of the High Mountain zone before descending at last to the Mattertal - the Valley of the Matterhorn.

My only regret on this stretch was in taking the post bus to Gruben, for while a road does head through the Turtmanntal, it would be worth spending an extra day to walk through it. Maximum altitude 2894m (9495ft)

The peaceful village of Gruben lies in the Turtmanntal, one of the most unspoilt valleys of the Alps. The village is as far up the valley as the postbus goes and is the start point for the hike to St Niklaus over the Augstbordpass.

Once above the treeline the path heads into remote country with views back to the Rhone Valley and the Bernese Alps.

The stone shelters of Ober Stafel (2369m) high above the valley made a good lunch stop before crossing the pass.

At 2894m or 9495ft the summit of the Augstbord Pass isn the highest point of the trek. The sign we now follow is the one for Jungu-St Niklaus.

Looking east from the top of the Augstbordpass the depths of the Mattertal are still largely unseen but the distant Saastal peaks etch the skyline with snow.

The path is signed right for St Niklaus and Jungu/Jungen just before this small tarn is reached.

After crossing a rough (but not difficult) section of path, the Mattertal comes into view a long way below. Here is a pathside viewpoint at about 2400m that was a good place to stop for a while.

Looking up the length of the Mattertal from nearly the same spot. The Breithorn (4164m) is the peak in cloud at the head of the valley.

The tiny hamlet of Jungen sits on a shelf overlooking the Mattertal. It is accessed by a small cable car from St Niklaus and is a popular spot in summer.

The distinctive onion domed church at St Niklaus is close to where the gondola descends from Jungen.

Back to day 5 >>> Kandersteg to Oberems

On to day 6 >>> St Niklaus to Randa

Grindelwald to Zermatt day 5 - Kandersteg to Oberems by the Gemmi Pass

Following the road south from Kandersteg brings one in a short distance to the Sunnbuel gondola which saves a climb of 750m before crossing the Gemmipass - a fascinating pathway through the Bernese Alps and the watershed between northern and southern Europe. The far side of the pass also has a gondola down to Leukerbad. Not using either gondola and walking all the way will add a day to the total route though the track to Leukerbad is built into the cliff face and looked so good that I regretted getting on the cable car.

From Leukerbad I had intended getting a bus to Visp in the Rhone Valley and another to Turtmann but I was offered a lift there by the Husky Man - not on the husky sled though - which saved me much waiting at bus stops. My night at Oberems was spent at the Emshorn Hotel where I was welcomed like a friend.



The spectacular valley of the Gasteretal seen from Sunnbuel en route to the Gemmipass. The high peak on the left is the Doldenhorn (3638m).

The wild landscape of the Gemmipass. An easy trail crosses the Bernese Alps here - a route that has been in use for centuries from the Kandertal in the North to the Rhone Valley in the South.

Trail companions!


Half way to the top of the pass, the trail climbs a shallow step of about 150m - looking back towards the Kandertal.



The Daubensee at 2206m lies just north of the summit of the pass

The first views of the Pennine Alps where we are headed. The summit of the Gemmi at 2322m is more like the edge of a plateau than a col with high country to the North and a sharp drop off to the South. It marks the watershed between northern and southern Europe with rivers to the North draining towards the Rhine and ultimately the North Sea while those to the South feed the Rhone which drains to the Mediterrannean.

Looking down to Leukerbad from the edge. It's about 1000m down and there's a choice of a sensational looking path or the gondola.

Turtmann in the Rhone Valley was the lowest point of the route at 640 metres or 2100 feet. An unmanned cable car ascends from here to Oberems.

The charming hamlet of Oberems in the canton of Valais overlooks the Rhone Valley and the southern side of the Bernese Alps.

back to day 4 >>> Griesalp to Kandersteg

on to day 6 >>> Oberems to St Niklaus

Grindelwald to Zermatt day 4 - Griesalp to Kandersteg

This was the point where I made the biggest - in fact the only real - deviation from the planned route. The obvious way from Griesalp to Kandersteg is via the pass known as the Hohturli which is a long day covering about 15km or almost 10 miles with an initial climb of 4500 feet from Griesalp. There is a signed path all the way and the route is considered slightly harder than the Sefinenfurke reaching an altitude of 2778m after a steeper ascent than the previous day's. I would still recommend this as the better way being the most direct line towards Kandersteg from where we will cross the Bernese Oberland algthough building in a rest day at Griesalp would avoid 2 long days in succession.

The route described here and in A Long Walk in the Alps was something of an adventure being completely off the beaten track and not clearly marked though technically it was much easier than the high alpine passes. It would make a good alternative in bad weather as it did here when the weather was so "good" that it was only suitable for lying in the shade in close proximity to a cold drink.

An over enthusiastic sun was threatening to roast the valleys to over 32 degrees (90 F) again so not fancying the long steep climb to the roof of the Alps, my day began with the morning post bus to Kiental Village and another to Ramslauen which is normally accessible by gondola. My walk took me to Frutigen where there is a regular train service to Kandersteg.

An easy and pleasant trail leaves Ramslauen above the Kiental amnd journeys through more idyllic meadows en route to Bachwald and Frutigen.

Right on the edge of the mountains here - the view towards Thunersee from the little used path 1000m above the Kandertal just after the farm known as Furggi. This was where I stopped heading west and turned south.

The tranquil lake behind the Hotel des Alpes where I stayed in Kandersteg. The hotel has a friendly and welcoming owner and is situated just south of Kandersteg centre on the way to the Sunnbuel cable car.

Back to day 3 >>> Murren to Griesalp

On to day 5 >>> Kandersteg to Oberems

Grindelwald to Zermatt Day 3 - Murren to Griesalp by the Sefinenfurke

A longer day today with 14km of walking, 1000m of ascent and 1200m of descent. We cross the mountain wilderness to the West of Murren and leave the Jungfrau Region behind. Maximum altitude 2628m (8622ft) at the Sefinenfurke.

Leaving Murren in the early morning for the Sefinenfurke. The village is a fairly upmarket but still charming place on a grassy shelf high above Lauterbrunnen.

The route soon enters an idyllic land of verdant pasture in the region of Spielbodenalp at almost 1800m. Refreshments are available from the small berghaus.

After a steep section of path the lower pastures are left behind and we enter a wonderfully wild valley where is situated the Rotstockhutte (visible) at 2039m.

Approaching the top of the Sefinenfurke at 2628m and a last look back at the Jungfrau Region.'s familiar peaks. The way to the Sefinenfurke is steep here but not difficult and the views are easily worth all the effort. This route could be treacherous in bad weather - especially after any significant snowfall so check before heading out.

New Horizons - looking west from the Sefinenfurke summit. The narrow saddle of the pass is a great lunch spot and the location is the first really remote country so far.

The first part of the descent is steep and loose but is made easier by wooden steps and a rope handrail. Care is needed here but it's not so difficult and no one fell off while I was there!

The way descends into the upper part of the Kiental - a veritable wilderness. There are no buses or trains here - you must walk all the way so be sure you can before leaving Murren. A wonderful descent brings us down again to the trees and finally to the hamlet of Griesalp.

Back to day 2 >>> Wengen to Murren

On to day 4 >>> Griesalp to Kandersteg

Grindelwald to Zermatt Day Two - Wengen to Murren

At 10km Wengen to Murren is a shorter day and was made even shorter thanks to the train. I know - cheating already!

Looking across the Lauterbrunnen Valley towards Murren from Wengen. The village lies on the shelf above the cliffs.

Three Peaks - The Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau from the path between Grutschalp and Murren.

The trail here is one of the easiest walks anywhere - let alone somewhere with views such as these. A relaxation day after the Eiger Trail and before the Sefinenfurke but if you wish to walk the whole way from Wengen you must first descend nearly 500m/1640ft to Lauterbrunnen then climb a steep 700m to reach this nice easy section. If you just walk from Grutschalp to Murren it is only 4km to walk with a gentle 150m of ascent.

The longer version follows the line of the railway then the gondola and while the distance added is only 6km, it is a lot of additional climbing. On a cooler day - maybe - but with 34 degrees Celsius - that's about 93 in old money - threatened for the valley I'm not ashamed to say that I took the gondola to Grutschalp and walked from there. Some people went by train all the way to Murren which is just plain lazy!

Back to day 1 >>> Grindelwald to Wengen

On to day 3 >>> Murren to Griesalp

Grindelwald to Zermatt - Walking From the Eiger to the Matterhorn

During the summer of 2007 I set out to walk through the Swiss Alps from Grindelwald beneath the North Face of the Eiger to Zermatt at the foot of the Matterhorn. It is a journey that certainly lived up to expectations though I did deviate somewhat from the planned route on a couple of occasions. My experiences on the walk itself can be read about in detail in A Long Walk in the Alps which was published the following year and the route would appeal to any who are looking to do a long distance Alpine trek without the crowds you can meet on the better known routes such as the Haute Route and the Tour du Mont Blanc. It is not too far from the tourist trail though and accommodation is plentiful along the way.

Why did I pick Grindelwald to Zermatt then? Well - they were both places that I had visited several times previously and they both stand beneath mountain peaks of World renown surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe. It was the idea of linking these Alpine regions and the 2 mountains - the Eiger and the Matterhorn - that really inspired the route. A more accomplished climber would climb the peaks but as I would be just as likely to fall off one of them I decided to begin with the Eiger trail and finish with the Matterhorn Trail - the 2 walkers paths associated with them.

This post is a photo diary of the route - the one actually followed as opposed to the one I should have followed - but I have added information on the intended route where they differ. The walk took me eight days to Zermatt with another day to walk the Matterhorn Trail (which you can do in an afternoon} though as the way is not set in stone like many of the more popular treks, there is plenty of scope to vary the route according to weather conditions or personal preferences.

Thanks to everyone who bought A Long Walk in the Alps - I hope you enjoyed it. I certainly enjoyed doing the route though some parts were hard work because of the weather.

Pete Buckley Mar 2011

The full story is available for download or free preview in both the US and UK Kindle stores while the photo diary of Grindelwald to Zermatt follows here - navigation is at the end of each post. For more e-reader formats please visit Smashwords.

Day One: Grindelwald to Wengen via the Eiger Trail


Walking down the road from the Hotel Lauberhorn towards Grindelwald one is greeted with views such as this - the Fiescherhorn (4049m) on the left and the Eiger (3970m) completely dominate this valley.



The Eiger Trail footpath frpm Alpiglen (1616m) begins over a pleasant meadow with the immense crags of the North Face looming overhead. The route heads through the trees ahead before doubling back to the right below the face.

Higher up the trail crosses some extremely pleasant open country which is unseen from below. The snow capped peak above the saddle is the Schilthorn (2970m).

Above on the left the Eiger makes its prescence felt. The North Face is 1800m or 5900 feet of near vertical limestone rising to the summit of the Eiger.

Nearing the top of the Eiger Trail route the view back is truly spectacular with Grindelwald far down to the left and the Grosse Scheidegg pass beyond. The peaks are the Schwarzhorn (2927m) and the Wetterhorn (3692m)

The view over the far side isn't bad either! A fine lunch spot where I was accompanied by a dog (not pictured) taking shelter from the sun. The building below is the Eigergletscher station of the Jungfrau Railway (2320m)while across the Lauterbrunnen valley which is a vertical mile below, Murren - next day's destination - can just be made out below the prominent peak of the Schilthorn (snow - just right of centre) while the obvious col to its left is the Sefinenfurke pass where we leave the Jungfrau Region.

The Eiger (3970m) and the Monch (4099m) from the easy path down past Wengernalp (1874m) which is a good place to stop for a drink or something to eat. Here you will encounter many tourists who have not just hiked up the Eiger Trail but have instead simply got off the train at Kleine Scheidegg and walked down. Never mind - I saw a golden eagle as well!

An hotel balcony, a beer and a view like this - cool! Evening alpenglow on the Jungfrau (4158m) from wengen while below is the Lauterbrunnen valley with the Breithorn at its head.

This section has well marked trails all the way with a total distance from Alpiglen to Wengen of 14km (9 miles) with just over 700m (2300ft) of ascent and 1050m (3400ft) of descent. Alpiglen is a request stop on the Jungfrau Railway. Walking from Grindelwald would make this a long day carrying a backpack.

Day 2 >>> Wengen to Murren (mostly by train)

The Oberrothorn - Switzerland's Highest Walkers' Peak

At an impressive 3415m or 11204ft the Oberrothorn is the highest peak in the Swiss Alps with a marked hiking trail to its summit. Apart from altitude there is no difficulty in the ascent - the slightly lower Mettelhorn across the valley being the more challenging - and it may be climbed from any of the gondola stations on the lift system known as the Rothorn Paradise which leaves Sunegga. You could even make the ascent from Zermatt but it's a long way up from there - over 6000 feet or 1800m.

Do not do as the author did and do this on the first day in Zermatt - much dizziness above 3000m - a couple of days in these high hills is a good idea before venturing to this height. The route between the two "Rothorns" is known locally as the Weg zur Freiheit or Freedom Path but don't take my word on that as I can't speak German. The pictures are from early July 2006

Looking down to Zermatt from the Rothorn gondola station which is on the Unterrothorn peak at 3101m. Starting from here is the easiest way to the top of the Oberrothorn but for a longer walk set out from Blauherd (middle station on gondola) or Sunnegga (funicular from Zermatt) where easy and well signed paths lead up to the col between the 2 peaks.

The Oberrothorn from the Unterrothorn. The way leads down to the col at the bottom of the picture and follows the path visible around the lower right side of the peak.

The path ascends without difficulty from the col around to the far side of the peak where it zig zags up a steep shale slope. The view from here is of the Rimpfischhorn (the sharp central peak) and the Strahlhorn on the right. Both are Alpine 4000 Metre Peaks and the upper part of the Saastal lies beyond them.

The far side of the Oberrothorn is not so easy and drops away precipitously. Care is needed if there are cornices but the way here is easy over snow and shale. Those who are not acclimatized you will notice the lack of air on the ascent!

The curious monument on the Oberrothorn summit at 3415m. The Matterhorn is supposed to be in view straight ahead here but the weather was not co-operating while the "eye" monument marks the end of the Weg Zur Freiheit. The way down is a simple retracing of one's steps back to the col between the 2 peaks. From there take the path that heads left down the slope instead of returning to the Unterrothorn. It soon widens and follows a high valley downwards through alpine meadows to Blauherd at about 2500m. Many marmots inhabit this section of the route.

Pete Buckley Feb 2011

For the full account of this trip please see my Oberrothorn page on Travellerspoint